the reason for this India trip - the Theyyam rituals

So why couldn’t I have spent longer in Hampi, which I liked so much?  Because I had an appointment with a local guide in the Keralan city of Kannur, to start an intensive three-day trip around various local temples to watch performances of the Theyyam rituals.  The reason I had come to India … as a result of seeing photographs of these rituals posted by a friend last year.  I didn’t really know anything about Theyyam, only that the ‘costumes’ were spectacular, and that I just HAD to see these for myself.

& now, after three days with very little sleep (the fire-jumping elements mainly take place during the night), I still don’t know that much about it, but am so very glad I came to see it.

What I did learn is that the responsibility for carrying out the rituals is inherited – and borne by the male members of some of the lowest castes in the area, sometimes from the historically 'untouchable' castes.  The tradition dates far back in time, believed to come from the days of ancestor worship.  It has been absorbed into the Hindu faith, but still maintains elements of spirit/animal/tree/village god worship.  Centre-stage is the kolam – the elaborately made up, masked and costumed man who represents, and during the ceremony becomes possessed by, one of the spirits or gods.  Always a man, although sometimes representing a female deity in which case his outfit includes model breasts.  Supporting him is a troop of assistants – drummers and horn players, those who carry shields, swords and other ritual instruments in the processions around the temple, those who make and maintain the elaborate costumes and who make up and dress the kolam, and those who keep the fires burning at the right intensity.

In some cases we were able to see part of the preparation, in particular the application of the make-up to the kolam, which takes quite some time.  We also saw some elements of the making and maintenance of the elaborate masks.

The variety of masks was amazing.  All red (I never found out why), with silver decoration, but in a huge variety of styles.  & augmented by the 'jewellery' (if that is the right word) worn by the kolam - silver mouthpieces, long silver nails ... in one case silver eyes!

I lost track of the number of theyyams we saw, but there was one 03:00 departure and another at 04:30, so that we could see the fire-jumping elements of the rituals.  These involve preparation of 'right kind' of fire (sometimes glowing cinders, sometimes a flaming bonfire), and sitting close by can be quite demanding as the heat is intense and burning parts fall on the audience.  But well worth it to see the kolams and their helpers in these sections of the performances.